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A Snapshot
Ulaan Baatar (UB) is a curious mix of old and new and a capital city dissimilar to most you will have seen and visited before. Horrible soviet architecture sits beside traditional nomadic Gers and whilst older Mongolians dress in traditional dress, younger Mongolians wear t-shirts, trainers and baseball caps and carry mobile phones. UB is an interesting city to spend a couple of days in though the real Mongolia lies in the countryside.
History
UB in its current location, beside the Tuul River and surrounded by mountains, is relatively new having only been established in about 1780. The capital city was originally about 300 miles to the west but as a reflection of the Mongolian's nomadic existence moved whenever there was a need for fresh grazing for animals. It's believed that the city probably moved about 25 times before settling in its current location and it has been known by numerous names, including the City of Felt and the Great Camp. It was only in 1924 that the city finally became known as Ulaan Baatar, meaning Red Hero and at that point city life revolved around the numerous monasteries and at this time no other buildings' roof was allowed to be higher than those of the monasteries. Sadly the Soviets destroyed many of the monasteries and older buildings instead constructing the huge concrete buildings that remain until this day. Today UB is home to a population of over 750,000, nearly a third of the country's total. |
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Gandan Monastery
Built in 1838 by the 4th Bogd Khan in a traditional Mongol style, Gandan remains a live monastery even despite the purges by the Mongolian and Soviet communists in the late 1930's, when many monks were tortured and killed. The monastery's main building is the Mejid Janraisag and before entry one should turn the prayer wheels, moving clockwise three times, as a means of purification. In the temple stands a 25 metre (gold and gilt) statue of Janraisag (Buddha of Compassion) whilst the walls are lined with statues of Ayush, the Buddha of Longevity. |
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| During morning chanting sessions the monastery feels totally alive and in 1995 the Dali Lama visited the temple to bless it. The library and small temples, on the right as you enter the Gandan complex, are where ordinary folks come and pay for prayers to be said by the monks on their behalf. Gandan means 'the great place of complete joy'. |
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Winter Palace of Bogd Khan
This palace and temple complex was built by the 8th (and final) Bogd Khan between 1893 and 1903 and was the home to the King and Queen until the King's death in 1924. The Kis were really only masters over religion and had little to do with government and administration, though the religious nature of most Mongolians at this time meant that they commanded significant respect. |
The Palace has interesting displays of what life was like at the beginning of the 20th century as well as a bizarre collection of stuffed animals. Legend has it that the elephant was walked all the way to UB from the Russian border. The temple complex, all built in traditional style and without the use of nails, has some wonderful Buddhist art on display. The Summer Palace, of which there are no remnants, was completely destroyed by the Soviets.
Chojin Lama Monastery & Museum
built between 1904 and 1908 it was home to one of Mongolia's leading monks and the brother of the 8th Bogd Khan - Chojin is an honorific title given to the most senior of monks. The main temple building, Maharaja Sum is magnificent and there are some excellent Tsam dance masks on display, one of which is made almost entirely out of red coral. |
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Zaisan Memorial
On Zaisan Hill, overlooking UB, lies a memorial, built by the Russians, commemorating those that died in battles against Nazi Germany and Japan and attesting to the friendship that existed between Mongolia and the former Soviet Union. The monument depicts scenes of success and joy between the two nations and from the top of the hill are good views over the city. |
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| National History Museum - this excellent museum provides a superb overview of Mongolia's history from the Neolithic age through to the advent of democracy in 1990. The first floor has exhibits through to the Bronze age, including some well preserved deer (burial) stones whilst on the second floor there are Mongolian costumes, representing most of the country's 20 or so indigenous tribes. The third floor houses exhibits on the history of Chinggis Khan and the growth of the Mongolian Empire along with a useful introduction to nomadic life and traditions, Shamanism and Buddhism. There are also some interesting displays of agricultural and household implements and an excellent display of documents from the 20th century, covering Independence, the Russian Takeover and finally Democracy. |
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Zanabazar Arts Museum - a small museum displaying some interesting artefacts from early Mongolia as well as religious paintings by the revered local artist, Zanabazar. Also in the museum are masks (Tsam) worn during Buddhist religious festivals and which were used to scare away the evil spirits and also two whimsical paintings by local artist, Sharav depicting scenes of Nomadic life - these are definitely worth having a look at. |
Sukhbaatar Square - here in 1921 Sukhbaatar declared Mongolia's independence from China and in the centre of the square is a statue of him astride his horse. Around the Square are Mongolia's Parliament Building - very Soviet in its architecture, the Palace of Culture, State Opera House and the nascent Stock Exchange. The Square was where pro democracy rallies were held in 1990 and Sukhbaatar's remains are in the Mausoleum, in front of the Parliament building. |
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Shopping- Shops and Markets |
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Cashmere, Silver ornaments, Clothes & Jewellery and more touristy souvenirs are the main things on sale in Ulaan Baatar. If you buy antiques you will need to get an export certificate from the shop you buy them from and your guide will give you more advice on this.
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If you are interested in Cashmere goods, for which Mongolia is famous, the best place is the Gobi Cashmere Factory Outlet Shop, where the selection and the prices are good - cashmere blankets and sweaters are good buys - The Gobi Shop has the best range of styles and prices. Cashmere goods are also available at the State Department Store, an enormous department store that sells most things - it has a good range of fairly priced souvenirs and also sells well priced Russian caviar - just in case you have a Caviar craving! An Antique Market will likely open in 2004. The Sky Shopping Mall, a modern shopping centre selling clothing, electrical goods and so forth will likely be of limited interest - it's located beside the Chinggis Khan Hotel. The Black Market is a sprawling collection of anything (apart from livestock) that a Mongolian could possibly need and sells clothes from China, fruit from Russia, building materials, traditional Mongolian clothes (at reasonable prices) and Gers. The Black Market is a fascinating place to walk around though photography is not recommended and do not take any valuables into the market with you. The market is normally closed one day a week and please check with your Guide. |
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Restaurants and Evening Entertainment |
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Food in Mongolia, including UB, cannot under any stretch of imagination be called gourmet. Meals are basic and served western as opposed to Chinese/Asian family style. Most meals, whether in the city or countryside include a salad, soup and main course which is normally beef or mutton - fish or chicken are sometimes available. Vegetarian food can be made available though the quality of these meals cannot be guaranteed.
UB has a number of newly opened restaurants and the dining scene is definitely improving though one doesn't visit Mongolia for a culinary experience! The city also has some good bars with a German and an Irish bar (near Sukhbaatar Square) being ideal watering holes.
In UB, there is an excellent evening Cultural Show that showcases much of artistic Mongolia and brings together the various cultural strengths from around the country. This show is recommended. In the Ger Camps there is limited evening entertainment and a good book is highly recommended. All Ger Camps serve alcoholic beverages and plenty of fresh air!!
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Other
Taxis are available in UB though can be scarce and please ensure your destination and the hotel name is written in Mongolian before leaving the hotel. UB is generally a safe city though you should be very vigilant, particularly after dark - as with any poorer country petty theft is always a concern.
At UB's Black Market photography is not recommended whilst do NOT carry valuables with you and always keep an eye on your wallet or purse. |
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