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A Snapshot
A noisy, brash and hedonistic pursuit of consumerism could be a fair way to initially sum up Hong Kong. The city has a pulse that is all of it's own but within a short drive or ferry ride away from the city centre lie areas that haven't changed in decades. Hong Kong (meaning Fragrant Harbour in the local Cantonese dialect) has a wonderful diversity of 'east and west', 'old and new' and is a city that is waiting to be explored and its atmosphere soaked up.
History
The Opium wars of 1840 led to the Treaty of Nanking, which ceded Hong Kong Island in perpetuity to Britain. In 1842 when the British arrived it was no more than a barren rock but had the advantage of having a sheltered deep water harbour. The 2nd Opium War in 1860 led to Britain acquiring the Kowloon Peninsula so that it could better defend the harbour and then in 1898 to the 99 years lease signed for the New Territories. |
Hong Kong was Britain's main colony in the northern South China Sea and quickly established itself as the centre of Britain's trade with China. Tea and silks were exported to Europe whilst opium was sent from the colonies in India as a means of paying for the teas and silks. The trading houses and financial firms all believed that Hong Kong should be run by them and that British colonial rulers were unnecessary. There are some wonderful stories of Hong Kong in the old days captured so well in a multitude of old and new travelogues.
Hong Kong's economy was boosted dramatically in 1949 with the communist takeover and the declaration of the People's Republic of China. Wealthy families and trading houses moved from the likes of Shanghai and made Hong Kong home. Manufacturing was encouraged whilst land, tightly controlled by the Colonial government, became a popular way to store wealth. Hong Kong transformed itself into the leading commercial and port city of the China coast and indeed of South East Asia and as the 'Gateway to China' and even with the handover of Hong Kong to China in 1997, it remains a key hub for Asian finance and commerce. |
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Getting around Hong Kong by MTR (the local 'tube'), tram, bus and ferry is easy. Hong Kong is split into four main areas - the Island, Kowloon, the New Territories and the Outlying Islands. Each area has its own character and combined they offer plenty to see. |
Hong Kong Island
| Central - overlooking Victoria Harbour is Hong Kong's business district and during weekdays is a bustling hub for finance and commerce. Check out the architecture of Sir Norman Foster's HSBC Building - take the escalator up to the 1st floor banking hall to see the inside. The Bank of China Building is also of architectural note, designed by IM Pei. There are few old colonial buildings left as 'progress' has demanded that they be knocked down to make way for yet more glass skyscrapers. Just up the hill from Central is Hollywood Road, Hong Kong's antique street and along this street is the Man Mo Temple, a beautiful working Taoist temple. Man Mo is definitely worth a stop. |
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The Peak - at least take the Peak Tram in one direction. This funicular rises 550 metres in the space of minutes starting through residential areas and arriving at the Peak Lookout Tower. At the Peak take in the views of Victoria harbour and the island's south-side. If the weather is good there is a pleasant 2 mile stroll around the summit. The Peak is also worth a visit at night to see the neon Hong Kong - weather co-operating!
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Stanley - on the south side of the island is Stanley. Once a fishing port and location of the British army barracks it's where the famous Stanley market is located. There is an interesting mix of shops and stalls and if you need a Fish and Chip fix this is the place to come - sitting at one of the waterfront pubs or cafes. Stanley has a much more relaxed atmosphere than much of Hong Kong but yet is easily reached by bus from other parts of Hong Kong Island and Kowloon.
Aberdeen - certainly not what it was....!, but still the location of the remaining Floating 'Jumbo' restaurant. It is still possible to take a small boat (a sampan) around Aberdeen harbour for a close-up look at the fishing boats and the lives that the fisher folk lead. |
Tram Ride - this is one of the best (and cheapest) ways to see Hong Kong. Try and get a front seat upstairs and ride it to the terminus. En route you will see Hong Kong at street level, its markets and way of life. Some of the interesting districts that you will pass through are Causeway Bay - shops, shops and even more shops. Wanchai which was the playground for soldiers on R&R from the war in Vietnam and now 'cleaned up' and Sheung Wan (to the west of Central), with its wonderful array of street life, markets and dried Chinese provisions shops.
The Star Ferry - ploughing its way and back and forth across Victoria Harbour for over a 100 years, it's a great way to get too and from Kowloon - definitely more scenic than the MTR.
Kowloon
Tsim Sha Tsui (TST) - is on the tip of the Kowloon peninsula. Around the Star Ferry are Hong Kong's Art and Space museums and the venerable Peninsula Hotel, where afternoon tea remains an institution (dress code). Nathan Road is the main road that divides the shopping areas to both east and west. Clothing and electronics shops jostle for the tourist dollar though please be careful buying electronics here - if the price seems too good, then it likely is. Ocean Terminal is a large shopping centre.
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A few minutes north of TST, at Jordan, is the night market at Temple Street. An interesting day-time walk is along Shanghai Street where metal workers, restaurants and any other type of business you can imagine all jostle for customers. The Taoist Tin Hau temple is an interesting diversion. Off Shanghai Street is the Jade Market where hundreds of stalls sell all varieties and qualities of Jade - again, caveat emptor.
Continuing north, near Prince Edward MTR station, are the Flower and Bird Markets. The flower market is a mix of wholesale and retail and at the end of Flower Market Road lies the Bird Market. Birds have been popular 'pets' in Hong Kong, partly as a result of small apartment sizes! There is an amazing array of birds with some fetching prices that will shock you. The markets in Mongkok and Jordan areas have good prices for sports clothes etc. Also in Kowloon is the colourful Wong Tai Sin Temple an active Taoist/Buddhist/Confucian temple.
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The New Territories
Hakka Houses at Kam Tin - this walled city from the 16th century has narrow streets, stone houses and a temple.
Mai Po Marshes - these wetlands have recorded more than 360 different types of birds and are a birdwatchers paradise.
Sai Kung - attractive waterfront town in the eastern New Territories with numerous seafood restaurants and some great trekking and hiking opportunities. One of our favourites is a 2-3 hours walk to the almost deserted Tai Long Wan Beach from where you can be collected by a traditional sailing junk (instead of another 4 hours walk) and the option of a catered lunch aboard can be offered before sailing back to Hong Kong's harbour. |
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The Outlying Islands
Hong Kong has somewhere over 230 islands, most of which are uninhabited. The three of most interest are:
Cheung Chau Island - a 45 minutes ferry ride away from Central, it makes for a pleasant half day excursion. Wander round the small town, see the sampans and fishing boats in the harbour and drop by the interesting little temple. Ferries Leave from Outlying Ferry Piers - check Pier Number.
Lantau Island - is where the Po Lin Monastery, an active Buddhist monastery and The Big Buddha, the world's largest 'outdoor' Buddha statue are found. It makes for a pleasant day out, though if your time in Hong Kong is limited, this trip should not be a priority. Take the ferry from the Outlying Ferry Piers to Mui Wo and a bus from the Ferry pier. There is a small fishing village at Tai O - use ferry and bus (as before) or MTR to Tung Chung and then bus to Tai O.
Lamma Island - a haven for cheap ex-pat accommodation and has some good sea food restaurants. If you are into a one hour walk over the 'mountain', take a ferry to Yung Shue Wan and then walk over the peak to arrive at the seafood restaurants in Sok Kwu Wan. From here there are ferries back to Central. |
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| Shopping- Shops and Markets |
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| Shopping is a way of life in Hong Kong and though the city has long been known as a shopper's paradise the bargains that Hong Kong was historically known for, such as electronics, designer goods and clothing, are not the bargains they used to be. Nonetheless shopping in Hong Kong remains exciting and there are plenty of bargains to be found and sights to be seen. |
Causeway Bay and TST are the main shopping areas and you will find a mix of department stores, designer goods, clothing, tailors, electronics and just about anything else you can possibly imagine. Central is mainly designer brands, while the markets listed below provide some alternative ideas.
Hollywood Road and Cat Street - Antiques - Central
Flower, Bird and Jade Markets - Kowloon
Temple Street Night Market - Kowloon
Dried Chinese products and street life - Sheung Wan
Meat, fruit and veg markets - Wanchai and Causeway Bay |
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Particular shops and areas that may be of interest:
Hollywood Road
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huge array of antique stores. For cheaper options check in Cat Street, near Man Mo Temple. |
| Shanghai Tang |
upmarket (expensive) Chinese clothing - Pedder Street, Central |
| Tequila Kola |
Asian furniture and home wares - Admiralty Centre, Admiralty |
| Fook Ming Tong |
Chinese teas -The Landmark in Central and Ocean Terminal, TST |
| CSRC Department Store and China Arts and Crafts |
- various locations - selling Chinese made products. |
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| Restaurants and Evening Entertainment |
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Hong Kong is undoubtedly one of the world's food capitals and supposedly there are more restaurants here per head of the population than anywhere else in the world. Reservations are required in Hong Kong, especially at weekends and please ask us for our latest suggestions or alternatively your Hotel Concierge can assist.
Bars abound though a couple of areas stand out. Lan Kwai Fong in Central has a truly eclectic mix of bars, clubs and restaurants attracting Hong Kong residents and visitors alike. Up the hill from Lan Kwai Fong is the area known as SOHO, where there are loads of restaurants, serving all sorts of cuisine imaginable.
For a 'pubbier' atmosphere, head to Wanchai where smaller bars line the streets on Lockhart Road (junction of Luard Road). |
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Other
The transfer from the airport is determined by traffic though 45 minutes is normal.
Helicopter rides over Hong Kong are an alternative way to see this fascinating city.
Taxis are plentiful in Hong Kong except when there is a heavy downpour or at rush hours. Most drivers speak enough English to be able to get around.
An interesting day trip can be arranged to neighbouring Macau, which until December 1999 was a Portuguese colony and still retains a Mediterranean atmosphere even despite the huge amount of building works that have been undertaken over the last decade. Macau is famous for its casinos, which are everywhere though more interesting is to wander around the Central Square and the surrounding narrow cobbled streets of the old town and then climb up to the Monte Fort and the ruined facade of St Paul's Church. For lunch try any of Fernando's on the beach on Coloane Island (fresh air dining with good simple and good value fare), the Pousada de Sao Tiago (old hotel) or A Lorcha on Rua do Almirante Sergio for great Portuguese and Macanese food. Portuguese wine is cheap. Ferries leave from Hong Kong's Macau Ferry Terminal every half hour or so and take about an hour. It's worth booking your return trip prior to leaving Hong Kong as afternoon/evening ferries can be busy. Remember your passport. |
Weather
Hong Kong is hot, humid and wet in summer!!, whilst it can sometimes get chilly in winter. |
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Max |
18 |
19 |
21 |
25 |
29 |
30 |
32 |
31 |
30 |
28 |
24 |
21 |
Min |
13 |
14 |
16 |
20 |
24 |
26 |
27 |
26 |
25 |
23 |
19 |
15 |
Rain |
23 |
48 |
67 |
161 |
316 |
376 |
323 |
391 |
300 |
145 |
35 |
27 |
Sun |
5 |
4 |
3 |
4 |
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5 |
7 |
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6 |
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6 |
Temperatures are averages in C,
Rainfall in mm, Sun is hours per day |
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